Legend holds that Paleokastritsa was the site of King Alcinous's palace, where Odysseus was welcomed and entertained before his final voyage home to Ithaca. Whether or not the myth holds truth, standing above these impossibly blue bays, it's easy to believe that gods once walked here.
Six Bays of Wonder
Paleokastritsa unfolds around six small bays, each one seemingly more beautiful than the last. The main beach curves beneath towering cliffs crowned by the white walls of the Theotokos Monastery, while smaller coves hide behind dramatic rock formations, accessible by small boat or determined swimming.
The water here achieves a clarity that seems almost supernatural. Swim out from shore and you'll find yourself suspended above a world of underwater caves and gardens, the sunlight filtering down through water so pure it barely seems to exist at all.
The Monastery Above
The Monastery of the Virgin Mary, or Theotokos, has crowned the Paleokastritsa headland since the 13th century, though the present buildings date from the 17th. Within its whitewashed walls, a small museum preserves Byzantine icons and ecclesiastical treasures, while the monastery's gardens offer the most spectacular views on the island.
The monks who still maintain the monastery welcome visitors with characteristic Greek hospitality, though the dress code is strict and the atmosphere reverential. Stand on the terrace at sunset and you'll understand why this site has been considered sacred for millennia.
Of all the places in Greece, this is where the gods would have chosen to summer.
— Ancient Proverb
